With cold winters and hot and, generally, dry summers, the region's micro-climes also boast soils and drainage which rival any of the best pinot vineyards world-wide. Although other pinot growing areas in NZ have been producing excellent flavorful wines, it is (and in my humble opinion) arguable that the CO-grown pinot along with the winemakers careful management produces better, more varietal-true wines that stand out among all pinots.
These great PNs will likely never be seen at home... the best are not produced in the quantity which would attract the large buyers (like the LCBO) but a number of the wineries, I found, do have Canadian representatives... just not listings for the good wines. Pricing is another problem... the premium single vineyard wines will be priced in the $60-90NZ range (about $50-70CDN) at the cellar door and I found the prices in wine stores to be only marginally more (<5%). That would price them out of most markets... so, even if you could get these top-end PNs, the prices would undoubtedly by well over $120CDN in most provinces... except, of course, AB.

Enroute Cromwell, we spied a vineyard on the south side of the Kawarau River along which the road ran... and we then saw the sign pointing to the Chard Farm winery tasting room and cellar door. A hard right turn and we were following a single car-width gravel road along and up the side of a steep hill with a sheer drop into the river gorge 70-100m below. Prayers were offered to Bacchus that we would not meet another vehicle coming around the 120-degree turns on this gravel track. Prayers answered, we forgot about the return trip and entered this small but excellent example of homage to the PN. Chard Farm (named from the Chard family - not the grape) has three vineyards in (hotter, dryer) Cromwell and the one on the river through which we passed and all wine is made on this premise - proximity of the river humidity keeps the barrels from losing contend during the aging process.

I won't dwell on the winery - a small, family owned and operated wonderfully warm place... we really enjoyed the tasting and the (retired) concierge behind the counter was yet another Kiwi with Canadian connections... we got along famously; as well, after the vertical tasting, I settled on two of his finest to become traveling companions if and until the appropriate situation arose.
The trip back to the main highway was equally slow and angst-ridden... but this time, we met a car coming into the winery on a 90-degree turn. We both stopped and assessed the situation - after a few monuments we moved closer to the sheer drop and allowed the oncoming car to proceed towards the winery. After a minute user to collect our respective 'thoughts', we continued... without further incident... and only when back on the real road did we relax... a bit.
Several more wineries appeared in rapid succession as we continued east north east through the Gibbston wine area... and a cheesery (probably based on the term 'fromagerie'). NZ fresh cheese - an excellent companion to the baguette and the PN in the trunk... right? Well, so we thought. Pushing on, now to our next stop as time was passing...

Cromwell is like a bedroom community - new, clean (nearly spotless) with manicured lawns and no seriously heavy industry... but it's not a bedroom community - just a nice small town (pop. about 3,500). It is surrounded by vineyards, however, and makes up the largest number of them in the CO area... which can now boast over 75 wineries! The scenery is much more subdued than that which surrounds Queenstown but the scenery isn't the reason people visit Cromwell. It's all about the pinot... and a couple of good restaurants.
Once settled into our comfortable 'self-catering' motel room (a great feature of almost all motor hotels, motels, etc. in NZ) with things 'put-away', we headed out to visit some wineries... unfortunately, for us, it was nearly closing time so we were able to stop for a tasting at only one... Olssens - a small-volume producer of really top-notch pinot noir on the Felton Road, in the Bannockburn area, on the other side of the Kawarau River. BTW, the Felton Road and the Cairnmuir Road are home for 13 wineries and, among them, 4 'world-class' pinot noir producers - Felon Road, Mt. Difficulty, Akarua and Desert Heart... the wine-growing areas of Central Otago include Gibbston (Chard Farm is in this area), Alexandra, Lowburn/Bannockburn and Wanaka... and, no, we didn't vista them all (although it would be an interesting challenge...).

Our concierge at Olssens winery offered to book a reservation at FEAST - one of the few good restaurants in Cromwell - and, she asked, would we like to take a bottle with us to dinner? Why, of course! was the instant reply. Not only that, but if we couldn't finish our bottle, it is perfectly fine in NZ to re-cap the bottle and take what's left home. Even if we purchased the bottle at the restaurant, the practice - VERY REASONABLE practice, I might add - to take your un-consumed wine away from the restaurant, is so civilized... winder what shifts in the political perspectives might be needed to alter our punitive practices at home???
FEAST is an award-winning restaurant noted for its preparation of lamb and beef... we selected the lamb and were not disappointed! Along with the Olssens pinot (brought from winery), we enjoyed a marvelous evening out.

Sunday was clear and windy... about 20C... and a great day to visit wineries. Rockburn was first on the agenda... it was in town on the way to the main highway. Wines were good (first of the day) but we were holding off for some of Bannockburn's specials. Arriving at Mt. Difficulty restaurant and cellar door, overlooking the vine-covered valley below, purely on spec, we asked if there was any chance of getting a seat for lunch... and we were lucky - there was a table available and our server, Maggie, was friendly with a wicked sense of humor; she was also a pinot fan... with every reason to be.

Lunch, as in most wineries with restaurants, was chef-created and replete with 'fresh everything'... my free-range lamb was, unfortunately, a tad less tender than I was expecting. That's when I found out the difference between free-range Merino sheep and the others - Merino are 'tougher'! The Mt. Difficulty single vineyard PN was, however, the start of the meal... along with the view. After the leisurely lunch we made our way to the Cairnmuir Road to Akarua for the final tasting in the area... and it was worth the trip.

In the evening, in the afterglow of such great wines and foods, we prepared for tomorrow's long trip to Christchurch... the longest single drive of the trip.
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Location:Cromwell, South Island









































